Petra Revisited, For A Moment

Jeremy and Talia in a sea of red rock in the Siq

Eden recently reminded me of an interesting little part of our trip to Jordan that I didn't recount in our prior post of December 16, Petra: Jordan's Gem And One Of The World's Wonders.  So, here goes - which also gives us an excuse to post some more pictures of Petra.  And it's some easy "filler" material (ok, I admit it) while I try to organize our 1,500 pictures of Egypt and get my jumbled thoughts together about the chaos, grandeur and sensory overload from 12 days of full-on, non-stop touring from Cairo down to Abu Simbel (about 30 miles from the Sudanese border) - by boat, bus, van, taxi and plane (including three flights in one day with five children in our entourage), staying in five different hotels.  I guess many people don't think of Istanbul - the next stop on our itinerary - as a relaxing destination, but we are looking forward to being in one place for a whole week without much of a sightseeing agenda.  There's even a kitchen, free wi-fi, and a washing machine!

But I digress.  The story Eden reminded me of concerns our journey crossing the border from Eilat, Israel to Aqaba, Jordan.  The Israeli side of the border is meticulously well-organized.  The lines to wait on are clearly labeled in multiple languages.  There are posts, ropes, stanchions and signs to tell and show you exactly where you should be and where you shouldn't be.  The border officials are neatly dressed, well-spoken and clean-shaven - the paragon of the modern bureaucrat.  They are focused on the task at hand, and while they are by no means unfriendly, there is a business-like formality and a kind of routinized efficiency to the process.  Step 1, followed by Step 2, followed by Step 3.  There isn't much, if any, small talk.  The bathrooms are immaculate, with loudspeakers perched above the urinals blaring Western pop music.

Then you walk over to the Jordanian side.  It's not exactly clear where to go, but you know you need money so you walk over to the foreign exchange office, which is a run-down building with the words "Change Money" spray-painted on the door.  There's a guy inside smoking a cigarette (it smells like he's been chain-smoking all day), with a three-day beard, a shirt that could use a good ironing and a tie that needs tightening and straightening.  He smiles warmly and starts to fawn over the kids, asking their names and their ages, and giving each a gentle pinch on the cheek.  (Talia likes the attention, but Jeremy flinches, as if he's thinking, "Who is this strange guy and why is he suddenly reaching for my face?")  The man asks inquisitively where we are going, what we are doing, how long we are staying in Jordan.  "Ah, Petra is so beautiful.  You will have a great trip," he says with a big smile as he puts out his cigarette to take a gulp of Arabic coffee before pulling out a large calculator.  After some more small talk, and some more gulps of coffee, he gives us our money, assuring us with a hearty laugh that the Jordanian Dinar is a "strong and good currency."  He asks if we need anything else - some more Dinars, perhaps, some Euros, any other currency?  When we decline he shakes my hand and says "Welcome to Jordan!" 

We then find our way to the immigration/visa office, where a uniformed man in a dimly lit room is lazily watching an old TV (the poor reception suggests that it isn't cable).  He is smoking a cigarette and drinking a cup of Arabic coffee.  He smiles and motions Talia to come over to make sure she's got a good view of the Arabic television program that's on while the formalities are being completed.  There's another guy in the room who is also smoking a cigarette and drinking coffee - it's not clear what his role or function is.  There's one more stop at another office (I forget what the purpose was), but there's no one there.  After a couple of loud "hellos!", someone finally arrives to complete our processing.  He looks as if he's just been awakened from a long, deep coma.   

We pass through the final passport check and are now officially in Jordan...

And here are some more pictures of Petra, for those of you who didn't get enough the first time around.

Jeremy climbing in the Siq

Horse and carriage in the Siq, with Talia in the background

The Siq

One of the many time-worn rock-cut facades at Petra

The Urn Tomb

Jeremy at Qasr al Bint

Can you hear me now?

A souvenir vendor looks out over her domain

Jeremy and the view from above the Monastery

Talia expressing her displeasure at the long hike to the High Place of Sacrifice

Huddling to avoid the strong winds at the High Place of Sacrifice

More gale-force winds at the High Place of Sacrifice

Another dramatic, windy vista at the High Place of Sacrifice

Mommy and Talia at the High Place of Sacrifice

The whole family at the High Place of Sacrifice