No, I'm not talking about New Orleans. I'm talking about the French Quarter in Pondicherry, India. Although much of India's colonial history is tied to England, Pondicherry - which recently changed its official name to the Tamil vernacular "Puducherry," but remains known affectionately as "Pondy" - was a French, not an English, colony. The French East India Company set up its trading center at Puducherry in 1673. This outpost eventually became the chief French settlement in India. Puducherry changed hands a number of times in the late 17th and the 18th centuries, as the Dutch, English and French warred with each other to control trade with India. When Britain gained control over the whole of India in the mid-19th century, the French were allowed to retain their settlements. These settlements remained under French control until 1954, seven years after India gained independence from Britain. Today, Puducherry is one of a handful of Union Territories in India, meaning it is directly administered by the federal government in New Delhi, and is not part of the surrounding state of Tamil Nadu. (It also means that the high Tamil Nadu taxes on beer and wine do not apply!) With its strong French colonial influence, Puducherry is unlike any other place we've seen in India.
Broadly speaking, the city is divided into two distinct parts - the modern, hectic Indian Quarter, and the calm, historic French Quarter, where Gallic touches are everywhere. The French Quarter is filled with old colonial villas, quiet shaded lanes with French street signs (our guesthouse was on Rue Dumas), and verdant open-air restaurants with comfy wicker chairs and chic names like "Le Club," "La Terrasse," "Au Feu de Bois" and "Rendezvous." Puducherry's varied cuisine fit our differing needs perfectly. The offerings ranged from tasty Indian dishes (for Eden and me), to hamburgers and steaks (forgive us Lord Krishna), to barbecued pork ribs (go figure), to various pasta dishes, to surprisingly well-done brick-oven pizzas. India wasn't Jeremy's favorite place - "It's too hot and it's too dirty!" - but he
loved the food in Pondy.
As you might have surmised, there are several French churches around town - but with a decidedly tropical color scheme: think bright whitewash, peach, pink, purple, ochre, powder blue and mustard yellow. There's also a scenic oceanfront promenade, where locals and tourists alike go for a leisurely stroll and to gather at the Gandhi statue. There's an intimate and attractive Muslim neighborhood, with a fascinating mix of indigenous and colonial architecture. In the new part of town in the Indian Quarter, there's a lively open-air market with plenty of cauliflower, coconut and coriander, and some very tasty (and spicy) deep-fried south Indian snacks. And, of course, Pondy has its share of Hindu temples, with an elephant on hand to dispense blessings (by tapping you on the head with his trunk) for a coin.
Pondy is an unusual, rewarding destination and a great place to relax for a few days in a traditional colonial villa (unfortunately, ours still had its traditional colonial plumbing), explore the leafy side streets, enjoy the eclectic Euro-Franco-Indian cuisine, and experience the intersection of colonial and modern India. It's not a village in Provence, but it's a vibrant, pretty and very friendly place. Just make sure you have an effective mosquito repellent with you at all times...
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| Here are some more shots of the French Quarter |
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| At our colonial guesthouse, the Villa Orphelia |
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| More from the Villa Orphelia |
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| Pretty common area of the Villa Orphelia |
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| At one of our favorite restaurants, Le Club |
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| More from Le Club |
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| The seafront promenade |
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| The Gandhi Statue |
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| In the Muslim neighborhood |
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| The "Indian" Quarter |
No, I'm not talking about New Orleans. I'm talking about the French Quarter in Pondicherry, India. Although much of India's colonial history is tied to England, Pondicherry - which recently changed its official name to the Tamil vernacular "Puducherry," but remains known affectionately as "Pondy" - was a French, not an English, colony. The French East India Company set up its trading center at Puducherry in 1673. This outpost eventually became the chief French settlement in India. Puducherry changed hands a number of times in the late 17th and the 18th centuries, as the Dutch, English and French warred with each other to control trade with India. When Britain gained control over the whole of India in the mid-19th century, the French were allowed to retain their settlements. These settlements remained under French control until 1954, seven years after India gained independence from Britain. Today, Puducherry is one of a handful of Union Territories in India, meaning it is directly administered by the federal government in New Delhi, and is not part of the surrounding state of Tamil Nadu. (It also means that the high Tamil Nadu taxes on beer and wine do not apply!) With its strong French colonial influence, Puducherry is unlike any other place we've seen in India. 
Broadly speaking, the city is divided into two distinct parts - the modern, hectic Indian Quarter, and the calm, historic French Quarter, where Gallic touches are everywhere. The French Quarter is filled with old colonial villas, quiet shaded lanes with French street signs (our guesthouse was on Rue Dumas), and verdant open-air restaurants with comfy wicker chairs and chic names like "Le Club," "La Terrasse," "Au Feu de Bois" and "Rendezvous." Puducherry's varied cuisine fit our differing needs perfectly. The offerings ranged from tasty Indian dishes (for Eden and me), to hamburgers and steaks (forgive us Lord Krishna), to barbecued pork ribs (go figure), to various pasta dishes, to surprisingly well-done brick-oven pizzas. India wasn't Jeremy's favorite place - "It's too hot and it's too dirty!" - but he loved the food in Pondy. 
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