The Bruner Family Journey: Taiwan's Temple Towns: Tainan & Lugang

Temple facade in Tainan

Tainan is Taiwan's oldest city and was its capital during imperial times. Legend has it that the city's former name, Tayouan, is the source of the name "Taiwan." It's a modern city, but it still teems with historic and cultural sights of interest: a myriad of old Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian temples; European forts and trading houses; varied remnants of the Japanese colonial era; and a few surviving quiet brick lanes that recall a more traditional way of life. The city also boasts lively street markets, a distinctive style of cuisine, and - as Jeremy was quick to emphatically point out - a Sushi Express restaurant near our hotel, where a conveyor belt transports tasty little plates of sushi past your table for only $1 a pop. It was also in Tainan that Jeremy discovered that he liked Chinese pearl tea drinks. It was definitely a successful destination from a cultural and culinary standpoint.

Parade in Lugang

Lugang (also spelled Lukang) doesn't seem to have the density of historic monuments that Tainan offers, but it is no less impressive. Lugang was an important trading port during the Qing Dynasty, due to the depth of its harbor and its proximity to Fujian province on mainland China. During its heyday in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, its population soared to 200,000, making it Taiwan's second largest city after Tainan. But the harbor ultimately silted up and the city refused to allow the railroads to pass through, which led to losses in trade and, in turn, the city's decline. At the same time, however, these changes averted much of the fast-paced modernization that swept through the rest of the country, and today Lugang offers a unique and robust glimpse at Taiwan's past. A major part of the city is a historic preservation zone - a rarity in Taiwan, Hong Kong or mainland China. It's impossible not to appreciate the ambiance of Lugang's narrow, twisting lanes filled with old houses and vendors of snacks, crafts and souvenirs - Jeremy was especially captivated by one of the glass makers. Jeremy also got a laugh out of visiting "Breast Touching Lane" (you read that correctly), a street so narrow that - how should I put this - a woman had to duck into a doorway to avoid rubbing up against an oncoming man.

We were fortunate enough to visit Lugang on a festival day - the main street was filled for hours with a boisterous and immensely colorful parade involving plenty of fireworks, elaborate costumes, animated characters, and a wide array of street snacks. The receptionist at our hotel said it happens every Sunday, which is astounding given the scale and duration of the enterprise. The parade in Lugang was a highlight of our stay in Taiwan and is a must for any visitor exploring this diverse and fascinating country.

That's it for Taiwan. It was an enormously fulfilling visit and it amazes me how few tourists come here. A big thanks to Erika for convincing us to come. Next stop: Seoul.