Jaffa Night Market

Thursday night, I hopped on a bus to visit the weekly Jaffa street market.  After I spent some time admiring the beautifully restored historic buildings, nighttime settled in and the market came to life, with throngs of people on the streets and merchants hawking their wares, selling everything from furniture, to ceramics, to jewelry, to pots and pans, to old posters and photographs, to brightly colored guitars.



I also got my live music fix, with several bands jamming in front of closed storefronts.  The band pictured below played an intriguing fusion of middle eastern and jazzy sounds, and attracted a pretty large and diverse crowd of listeners.

In an earlier post, I described the quiet and atmospheric alleys of Jaffa's old town and port.  But the street market is in "new" Jaffa, which dates only to Ottoman times and experiences higher decibel levels and perhaps some more colorful characters (who are those men dressed as women on stilts?).  And when all this activity makes you hungry, just head over to the brick oven bakery for a tasty sambusa!

Learning Hebrew – Shalom, Toda, and Speak Slowly Please

One morning, about a week after our arrival, the doorbell rang at 6:55am. We were all fast asleep. Eden recognized the doorbell (which we had never heard rung before) and jumped up to see who it was. A man outside was repeating something over and over in agitated Hebrew. Eden looked through the peephole and didn't recognize him, so she said...an oft-repeated phrase, “Slikha, ani lo medeberet ivrit” (Sorry, I don't speak Hebrew). That's when the man grimaced and held up our keys. Ah-ha, keys! Apparently we had left them in the door all night. Later, Eden tried to remember what the man had said. So, she looked up “key” in our dictionary. There were eight, yes eight, Hebrew words listed for “key.”  She has no recollection of what the man said. Oh well, we'll file that away in our “to be learned when we finally get a Hebrew teacher” folder. (Note: Eden is the one who has been to a key shop and had copies of our keys made. That was accomplished using English and hand gestures. The word for key never came up!)

 

Keys aside, we are starting to pick up some rudimentary Hebrew. At first, we felt like we'd been dropped on an alien planet. Everyone was talking so fast and the cool fonts used for signs and menus were impossible to read and, of course, there were no vowels (in short, nothing like the prayerbook Hebrew we learned to read in Hebrew school). 

After a couple of weeks here, though, and some perusing of our phrase book, we are starting to recognize some words and phrases and to feel like we might eventually connect with people in Hebrew (a bit!). It's still very difficult for us to comprehend conversational Hebrew (too fast and too many unfamiliar words muddying the waters) but we are reading more signs, understanding station/stop announcements on the bus, and saying a few things. Talia is taking a great interest. She heard Eden on the phone say “Yossi lo ba bayit” (Yossi is not home, in reference to our landlord) and asked what it meant. She spent the evening saying “So and so is not home” or “So and so is home.” It was pretty amazing how she picked it up. (Talia will be 5 in October. It's going to be very interesting to follow her Hebrew development alongside her English development. She's still working on mastering the English alphabet.)

Undoubtedly, the key to learning Hebrew (and finding out the right word for “key”) is for us to USE it even if we stumble along and our interlocutors are frustrated because they could easily speak to us in their excellent English (or Russian).  If you have ever experienced Soviet customer service, you can imagine that our Russian-speaking grocery store clerk isn't always delighted to wait patiently while we fumble along in Hebrew. That said, we must rush to the defense of the many cashiers and waiters who have really helped us and shown quite a bit of forbearance. So, no excuses, we are going to study and practice!

Mystical Tzfat

Tzfat is an evocative hilltop city in northern Israel with a rich heritage of Jewish spirituality.  It is one of Judaism's holiest places and the center of Kabbalah, or Jewish mysticism, which is (according to Wikipedia, since we're really not qualified to provide an authoritative explanation) a complex school of thought that seeks to define the nature of the universe and the meaning and purpose of human existence.  The town is filled with ancient synagogues, narrow cobblestone alleys, and a plethora of art galleries - ranging from new age-y, to bohemian, to traditional, to tourist kitsch.  So, you can buy a truly innovative work of art depicting profound themes of Jewish mysticism and spirituality, then pick up your Omri Casspi Sacramento Kings jersey in the very next doorway.

The city rose to prominence in the 16th century as many Jewish scholars and philosophers settled here after being expelled from Spain in 1492.  Tzfat became a center for Jewish learning and was reputedly the site of the first printing press in the Middle East in 1577.  More recently, it served as Israel's art capital in the 1950s and 1960s, drawing leading artists throughout the country, and is now hailed as a center of klezmer music, hosting an annual klezmer festival. 

It was a bit of a challenge to fully digest and enjoy all that Tzfat has to offer, given the searing 100-degree heat (our guidebook said that Tzfat's hilltop location offers a respite from the summer heat, but not on this day), and the meltdown of our youngest child.  Nothing that a long nap on a shaded bench couldn't cure, but we'll be sure to make another visit when the temperature, and our mood, is better suited for touring....

One of Tzfat's many art galleries

An old synagogue

A quiet, shaded alley

A synagogue interior

The new and the old

Tzipori - "The Ornament of The Galilee"

On our way back from Yodfat to our apartment in Ramat Gan, we stopped at Tzipori National Park, an impressive archeological site with layers of Roman, Byzantine, Jewish and Crusader history.  We climbed down into the city's ancient water cisterns, which form a long, narrow canyon more than 50 feet deep and which once were part of a continuous water supply system that brought water to the city from a spring about eight miles away.  We also marveled at the wonderfully preserved mosaics, including the floor of an ancient synagogue.  And we enjoyed the small museum of ancient artifacts, housed in an air-conditioned (woohoo!) Crusader citadel.  It was a big hit with our kids, who loved walking the ancient colonnaded streets, imagining what the city was like in its heyday, picnicking on the shaded benches overlooking the site, and, of course, visiting the gift shop and buying ice cream. 

The city was first settled in the second century BCE and served as the Roman capital of the Galilee after being conquered in 63 BCE by the Roman general Pompeii.  The first century historian Josephus Flavius described the city as "the ornament of the Galilee."  Tzipori was also the birthplace in the second century of the Mishnah, the oldest codification of Jewish oral law. 

Archeological explorations continue to unearth more discoveries at this most worthwhile site; thus far, the most prized mosaic is referred to as the "Mona Lisa of the Galilee."  Is she smiling?

Life on the Moshav

Our host gives a fascinating tour of ancient Yodfat

Yodfat is a small moshav (which is a kind of cooperative Israeli village) up in the hills near the Sea of Galilee, about two hours north of Tel Aviv.  One of our very closest friends from California grew up in Yodfat, and we stayed with his brother's family for five nights.  It was an amazing and truly memorable trip, and a great way to experience village life.  There's one store, one cafe and one pub (which is open two nights a week).  The village really comes to life on Fridays, when people come from all over the region for the best falafel I've ever tasted (made by none other than our gracious and talented hosts!).  The scenery is beautiful; the air and the food are as fresh as can be; and the simple, rural way of life is a refreshing change of pace from the hectic urban lifestyle we've become so accustomed to.  But what made the largest impression on me was the generosity and communal spirit of the people of Yodfat -- the village feels like a large extended family, where pitching in and helping each other out is a fundamental part of everyday life.  

Jeremy and Talia make it to the top of ancient Yodfat

Fun in the sun!

Talia helps to feed the chickens

Falafel anyone?

Get that monkey off your back!

Hanging out with friends (in superhero underwear)

Jeremy likes passion fruit!

Archeological explorations and historical writings have revealed a turbulent history going back more than 2,000 years.  The siege and destruction of Yodfat in 67 C.E. were described by Josephus Flavius, a commander of the Jewish revolt against the Romans and subsequent chronicler of Jewish history in the first century.  Three Roman legions besieged the town; afters weeks of fierce resistance, the citizens of Yodfat, to avoid capture and enslavement, committed mass suicide, a tragic story foreshadowing the famous siege of Masada only a few years later.  Hence, the moniker for Yodfat of "the Masada of the Galilee."

The modern moshav has a more peaceful history.  It was founded in 1960 by a small group of people who sought to establish a village based on a close relationship with nature and a strong sense of community.  Life on the moshav is hard work, but the people there obviously love their home and are rightfully proud of it.  For us, life on the moshav was filled with fun and consisted mainly of helping to feed the chickens; visiting the village zoo and "monkey forest" (where we learned that monkeys really like it when you feed them worms); swimming in the moshav's only swimming pool; eating passion fruit and figs straight from the trees; enjoying a local bar mitzvah celebration, which featured delicious smoked meats prepared by the father of the bar mitzvah; traveling to nearby Arab villages for fantastic meals (including a sweet shop that was alone worth the journey from California); hanging out with our new friends and playing games; and, of course, learning how to make falafel.

Old Jaffa

Jaffa is believed to be one of the oldest harbors in the world. Legend has it that Jaffa was built right after the Great Flood by Japheth (one of Noah's sons), who named the city after himself. According to another etymology, the city was named for its beauty, recalling the Hebrew words yafe ("beautiful") and yofi (which is commonly used in today's vernacular for "wonderful"). It's easy to see why the city is called "the Bride of the Sea."

Historical sources and archeological investigations indicate that Jaffa was a well-established city from the 18th century BCE onward. Egyptian texts from the 15th century BCE glorify the city's conquest by Pharaoh Thutmose III. Apparently, the Egyptian warriors hid in large baskets and then sent the baskets as a gift to the Canaanite city's governor, allowing the Egyptians to conquer the city from within. Maybe that's where the Trojans got the idea.

Some centuries later, King David and his son Solomon conquered the city, using its port to bring cedar trees from Tyre (in modern day Lebanon) for the construction of the First Temple in Jerusalem in the 10th century BCE. What follows is a labyrinthine history, with tales of the city's conquest by Assyrians, Babylonians, Phoenicians, Maccabean rebels, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Crusaders, Mamluks, Ottomans and Napoleon - did I leave anyone out?

There are many ancient legends surrounding Jaffa.  According to the Bible, it was from Jaffa that Jonah set sail before his encounter with the whale. According to the New Testament, Jaffa was where Saint Peter raised Tabatha from the dead. According to Greek mythology, Poseidon chained Andromeda to the rocks on Jaffa's shore so that she would be eaten by a sea monster (fortunately Perseus came to her rescue). One Jewish legend says that all the sunken treasure in the world flows toward Jaffa, and in King Solomon's time the sea offered great riches, which accounted for some of the king's wealth.

Fortunately for today's tourist, in recent times the old city has been painstakingly restored after many years of neglect. It is extremely atmospheric and is reached by an easy and enjoyable stroll along Tel Aviv's picturesque waterfront esplanade.

We spoke with a nice Israeli couple who recently moved to Jaffa (returning after many years in Australia). When we asked them why they decided to live here, they said they liked the mixed population of Arabs and Jews, which reminded them of Haifa, the northern Israeli city where they grew up.  We sensed that mix as we approached Jaffa on foot from central Tel Aviv, as we came across Muslim and Jewish families playing along the waterfront within a few feet of each another.

We've read, however, that behind the charming alleyways and art galleries of the old town, Jaffa suffers from urban problems like poverty, drugs and crime. Based on our brief visit, we can't really speak to the broader socioeconomic situation - but we can say that old Jaffa is a fascinating destination with a quiet ambiance that seems a world away from the nearby bustling beaches of Tel Aviv.

The Beach

Tel Aviv's long, vibrant and pretty shoreline is one the city's main attractions - just ask our kids!  By day, it's packed with families; tourists from all over the globe; locals who come to swim, play and work out (just like muscle beach in Venice in LA!); and even movers and shakers making deals on their cell phones.  By night, it doesn't seem to get any less crowded, with large groups of people barbecuing, smoking the nargileh (middle eastern water pipe), singing and dancing, and (you guessed it) drinking and reveling.  The beach is also a very short walk to scores of restaurants (ranging from windows selling felafel to sophisticated culinary hot spots), hip bars and coffee shops, and trendy shops of all shapes and sizes - many open deep into the wee hours.

If this sounds exciting to you and you're thinking of renting or buying an apartment . . . not so fast.  Apparently, Tel Aviv has become one of the most expensive cities in the world for real estate, due in large part to the recent influx of part-time residents from abroad buying up properties for holiday homes.

According to one of our local contacts, many of her neighbors are Jews from France who are increasingly spending time in Israel due to the rise of antisemitism in France.   We certainly heard a surprising amount of French on the sands and streets near her apartment.  We spoke with a man who lived in Paris, who said that he was coming to Israel more and more because he was feeling less and less comfortable as a Jew at home.

Whatever the reason for coming, the beaches of Tel Aviv are a great place to frolic, shop, eat, drink, and relax.  We'll certainly return often.  It's an easy (and air-conditioned!) bus ride, and we're quickly becoming well-versed in Tel Aviv's extensive (and air-conditioned!) bus system.

From our kids' perspective, the only downside to the beach was that they didn't like the french fries.  Apparently, they're too "potato-ey."  Alas, they prefer McDonald's...

Our Arrival In Tel Aviv

We arrived at our apartment in Ramat Gan on Friday morning, August 6, thoroughly exhausted after two consecutive overnight flights.  The apartment is great - clean, spacious (3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms), modern (with electric black-out window shades), and very quiet (on a small cul-de-sac).  Ramat Gan is right next to Tel Aviv (with many convenient bus connections), and has many parks and attractive tree-lined boulevards, as well as Israel's tallest building, largest sports stadium and biggest zoo.

Almost immediately on our arrival, we had a very interesting discussion with our landlord about Jewish observance.  He said that sometimes he is very observant, but other times much less so.  He said that he feels "in the middle" and doesn't know what to do, since some of his family members are quite orthodox, while others are completely non-observant.  We witnessed this phenomenon on our very first bus ride, where the juxtaposition of traditional and modern, devout and secular, solemn and carefree - and the range of fashion - was striking.

Our first errand was to go to the supermarket (the "mega") to load up on provisions.  We bought about seven different kinds of yogurt (some sweet, some salty) - all of them delicious.  Shopping was a bit of a challenge, since our Hebrew is quite rudimentary at this point.  But Eden's Russian saved the day!  Most of the workers in the store, and a number of customers, were obviously native Russian speakers.  It was also interesting to see the wide variety of Russian and Eastern European products on the shelves - anyone up for some smoked fish?  It felt like a touch of home, reminding us of our days near Geary Boulevard in the Richmond District in San Francisco!

After we get settled and get some rest, what is going to be our first adventure in Tel Aviv?  It's unanimous - the beach!

Warsaw - The Journey and the Blog Begin

Welcome to the Bruner Family Journey blog!

We left JFK Airport on August 4th for Tel Aviv - a of couple weeks late due to an unexpected illness and week-long hospital stay (thankfully, Marc's OK now).  We will be posting regularly - wish you were here!

Our first stop was a 14-hour layover in Warsaw. (Lot airlines had the cheapest flights!)  We had a fun time wandering aimlessly through the Old Town, both on foot and by horse-drawn carriage.  Jeremy loved taking pictures and, as evidenced by the very first photograph on our blog above, he's pretty good at it. 

Warsaw's historic area was destroyed during WWII, but it has been meticulously reconstructed, and now boasts beautiful squares, cobblestone streets, vibrant street culture with artists, musicians and mimes...

and plenty of ice cream shops!











Interestingly, our taxi driver expressed as strong a dislike for the Old Town as he did for the Soviet-style buildings given to the city by Stalin as a "gift."  He thought that the Old Town wasn't "real" and said we shouldn't pretend something built in the 1950s is hundreds of years old.  But we found it to be a very pleasant place to spend a few hours, especially with some pierogies and Zywiecs (Polish beer).

As a final note, we quickly noticed that our hotel was across the street from a pretty, old synagogue.  The Nozyk Synagogue is reportedly the only synagogue in Warsaw to survive WWII.  It was originally within the Warsaw ghetto, but then was outside it when the ghetto shrank due to mass deportations.  The Nazis used it as a stable for horses.

We were thankful to see the synagogue still standing - and still functioning.  On that note, see you in Tel Aviv!