Old Jaffa

Jaffa is believed to be one of the oldest harbors in the world. Legend has it that Jaffa was built right after the Great Flood by Japheth (one of Noah's sons), who named the city after himself. According to another etymology, the city was named for its beauty, recalling the Hebrew words yafe ("beautiful") and yofi (which is commonly used in today's vernacular for "wonderful"). It's easy to see why the city is called "the Bride of the Sea."

Historical sources and archeological investigations indicate that Jaffa was a well-established city from the 18th century BCE onward. Egyptian texts from the 15th century BCE glorify the city's conquest by Pharaoh Thutmose III. Apparently, the Egyptian warriors hid in large baskets and then sent the baskets as a gift to the Canaanite city's governor, allowing the Egyptians to conquer the city from within. Maybe that's where the Trojans got the idea.

Some centuries later, King David and his son Solomon conquered the city, using its port to bring cedar trees from Tyre (in modern day Lebanon) for the construction of the First Temple in Jerusalem in the 10th century BCE. What follows is a labyrinthine history, with tales of the city's conquest by Assyrians, Babylonians, Phoenicians, Maccabean rebels, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Crusaders, Mamluks, Ottomans and Napoleon - did I leave anyone out?

There are many ancient legends surrounding Jaffa.  According to the Bible, it was from Jaffa that Jonah set sail before his encounter with the whale. According to the New Testament, Jaffa was where Saint Peter raised Tabatha from the dead. According to Greek mythology, Poseidon chained Andromeda to the rocks on Jaffa's shore so that she would be eaten by a sea monster (fortunately Perseus came to her rescue). One Jewish legend says that all the sunken treasure in the world flows toward Jaffa, and in King Solomon's time the sea offered great riches, which accounted for some of the king's wealth.

Fortunately for today's tourist, in recent times the old city has been painstakingly restored after many years of neglect. It is extremely atmospheric and is reached by an easy and enjoyable stroll along Tel Aviv's picturesque waterfront esplanade.

We spoke with a nice Israeli couple who recently moved to Jaffa (returning after many years in Australia). When we asked them why they decided to live here, they said they liked the mixed population of Arabs and Jews, which reminded them of Haifa, the northern Israeli city where they grew up.  We sensed that mix as we approached Jaffa on foot from central Tel Aviv, as we came across Muslim and Jewish families playing along the waterfront within a few feet of each another.

We've read, however, that behind the charming alleyways and art galleries of the old town, Jaffa suffers from urban problems like poverty, drugs and crime. Based on our brief visit, we can't really speak to the broader socioeconomic situation - but we can say that old Jaffa is a fascinating destination with a quiet ambiance that seems a world away from the nearby bustling beaches of Tel Aviv.