More From The Nabataeans: The Ancient Cities of Avdat, Mamshit & Shivta

One of the three Byzantine churches at Shivta

The Nabataeans' most glorious achievement was Petra, but they also established three cities in the Negev desert in Israel - Avdat, Mamshit and Shivta.  These cities were built as way stations on the spice and incense route that at one point stretched all the way from Rome to India.

Built in the 3rd century BCE, Avdat was the second most important Nabataean city after Petra.  After the Nabataean kingdom was annexed by the Romans in the early 2nd century CE, the city became part of the road and defense network of the Roman Empire.  As trade routes shifted, Avdat adjusted by adopting agriculture and it flourished during the Byzantine period as a wine-making center.  The city was abandoned after an earthquake struck in the 7th century CE.  The extensive hilltop ruins at Avdat include a Roman military camp, a large fort, an incredibly well preserved bathhouse, wine presses, burial caves, a residential area, a complex of Nabataean temples, Byzantine churches, and a potter's workshop.  The site offers great views of the desert through its numerous arches and doorways and is a highlight of a visit to the Negev.

Talia outside the main entrance gate to the fort

Jeremy outside the main entrance gate to the fort

Family silhouette inside the main entrance gate to the fort

I think this is part of a Byzantine church

The bathhouse

I think this is part of a Nabataean temple

Talia poses in an ancient doorway

Roman army camp

Remains of a private villa

Jeremy runs with a stick in the fort (it's all fun and games until you poke an eye out!)

View of the Negev Desert

Mamshit was built in the 1st century CE as an important trade post on the route from Petra to Gaza.  Like Avdat, Mamshit was forced to adjust to shifting trade routes during the Roman occupation, and it turned to raising horses.  During the Roman period, Mamshit's prized Arabian horses brought it fame and fortune.  During Byzantine times, Christian authorities provided funding to Mamshit as a frontier city and several churches were constructed.  When the funding dried up, Mamshit was abandoned.

Before the founding of the State of Israel, Prime Minister to-be David Ben-Gurion apparently envisioned Mamshit as the capital of the future country, which dovetailed with his dream of settling the Negev.  Driving through the empty landscape that surrounds the sleepy, dusty ruins, it's difficult to imagine Mamshit as anything more than an archeological objet d'art (although an impressive one at that).  The ruins here include stables, churches, a Roman watchtower, two caravan inns, a dam and reservoir system, several very impressive dwellings, a reconstructed market, and a well preserved city gate.

Mamshit city gate

View of the Mamshit Greater Metropolitan Area

Real estate is still available in Upper Mamshit

The stables

Some rich dude's house

Byzantine baptistry

Built in the 1st century BCE, Shivta is the most isolated of the ancient Nabataean cities in Israel and perhaps the most beautiful.  It's difficult to believe that this place was on the route to anything, as it feels like you're in the middle of nowhere.  The most impressive things about Shivta are the water collection system, the extensive street network, the graceful Byzantine churches, and the remote desert scenery.  Just don't go too far off the path, as the area is a training ground for the Israeli artillery corps.

Talia hanging out on Main Street

Byzantine Church #1

Byzantine Church #2 (also pictured at the very top of this post)

Byzantine Church #3

Let's go back to Church #1 for a moment

Good thing the Nabataeans were skilled in water resource management

Talia in church doorway (Church #2 for those of you keeping count)

Byzantine wine press

Cool rock carving

"Which way to downtown?"

In addition to these three ancient cities, you can explore the dirt and gravel back-roads of the Maktesh Ramon (an enormous erosional crater in the Earth's surface that will be featured in the next blog post) to track down the Khan Saharonim, a Nabataean-built inn for travelers on the trade route from Petra to Avdat to Gaza.  There's a pretty stream bed by the inn leading to a broad canyon, which is great for hiking and watching ibexes.

The ruins of Khan Saharonim

View from the (mostly dry) streambed

Ibexes posing for my picture

Hey little fellah!

Hiking in the canyon

The Nabataeans built beautiful cities and they excelled at making the most out of their desert surroundings.  They were experts in water management and conservation and they showed great skill in adapting to dramatic political, economic, and social changes.  Perhaps they have something to teach us today.