Akko (also known as Acre), a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited sites in the world and one of Israel's most compelling destinations. The city has a very long, turbulent, and convoluted history, and for centuries it served as a prized and strategic asset for invading armies due to its protected deep-water harbor. Here's a ridiculously oversimplified “reader's digest” version of Akko's past, garnered from our guidebooks and from various sources on the internet (not just Wikipedia!).
The city is mentioned in ancient Egyptian texts going back to the 19th century BCE, and is the place where, according to Greek mythology, Hercules took refuge to heal his wounds. The city's name is reportedly derived from the Greek word “ake,” meaning cure or healing. The city enjoyed several periods of independence, but has also hosted an impressive and diverse list of foreign conquerors and rulers, including – but by no means limited to – the Assyrian King Sennacherib; Alexander the Great; the Roman General Pompey; Cleopatra VII of Egypt; and Tigranes the Great of Armenia. During the Roman period, Julius Caesar landed here in 47 BCE, Herod a few years later made it his base for the conquest of his kingdom, Vespasian made it as his base of operations against the Jews of Galilee in the 1st century, and Nero made it a Roman Colony (Colonia Claudia Ptolemais Germanica – say that ten times fast while juggling three felafel balls).
The Arabs conquered Akko in the 7th century, but the Crusaders seized the city in the 12th century and established it as their principal port. By the latter part of the 12th century, the city became the main port of the eastern Mediterranean, and the kingdom of Jerusalem was regarded in the west as unusually wealthy because of Akko, which reputedly provided more money for the Crusader crown than the total revenues of the King of England. But as all good things must come to an end, in the 13th century, the Mamluks pounded the city, the Crusaders' last stronghold in the Holy Land, into a pile of rubble. (Although I'm sure it was an attractive pile of rubble.)
Akko remained in ruins until the 18th century, when the Albanian mercenary Ahmed Pasha al-Jazzar (known as the “butcher,” either because of his excessive cruelty or his talents in making delicious carved roast beef sandwiches) took control and rebuilt the city under the auspices of the Ottoman Empire. Napoleon tried, but failed, to conquer Akko in 1799.
Akko remained under Ottoman control until 1917, when the city became part of the British Mandate. The British used the Akko citadel as a prison, and many political prisoners, mainly Jewish underground movement activists, were jailed here.
Ok, got that? There will be a multiple choice test later on.
For today's visitor, one of the main attractions is that the current version the city (which dates to the 18th century) was built on top of the old crusader ruins, creating a fascinating network of subterranean vaults, crypts, tunnels and passageways. The city also enjoys an amazingly picturesque setting, with fortified Ottoman ramparts jutting out dramatically into the sea and an extremely quaint marina offering cold drinks and boat tours. There are also a number of interesting museums devoted to the history and art of Akko.
The old part of town was eerily quiet during my visit because of Ramadan, as many of the inhabitants of the old city are Muslim. And I kept getting lost in the labyrinth of empty, narrow streets – which is no surprise to anyone who is familiar with my sense of direction (or lack of one). But I had a very enjoyable time strolling around the arched alleyways, admiring the historic architecture, crouching in the underground tunnels (to avoid a major head injury), and drinking freshly squeezed pomegranate juice.
The Arabs conquered Akko in the 7th century, but the Crusaders seized the city in the 12th century and established it as their principal port. By the latter part of the 12th century, the city became the main port of the eastern Mediterranean, and the kingdom of Jerusalem was regarded in the west as unusually wealthy because of Akko, which reputedly provided more money for the Crusader crown than the total revenues of the King of England. But as all good things must come to an end, in the 13th century, the Mamluks pounded the city, the Crusaders' last stronghold in the Holy Land, into a pile of rubble. (Although I'm sure it was an attractive pile of rubble.)
The old part of town was eerily quiet during my visit because of Ramadan, as many of the inhabitants of the old city are Muslim. And I kept getting lost in the labyrinth of empty, narrow streets – which is no surprise to anyone who is familiar with my sense of direction (or lack of one). But I had a very enjoyable time strolling around the arched alleyways, admiring the historic architecture, crouching in the underground tunnels (to avoid a major head injury), and drinking freshly squeezed pomegranate juice.
When we were in Akko I begged my parents to let me jump off the Akko Wall, nearly 100 feet into the sea. The local kids were doing, waiting for the tide to sweep back in before each jump. It was insane!!! But I was ready. Parents said NO! One of my favorite memories from our visit back in 83 or 84.
ReplyDelete