The Bruner Family Journey: Guys' Night Out In Taiwan

Worshipers at the Longshan Temple in Taipei

When I told people that Jeremy and I were going on a father-and-son excursion to Taiwan, the most common reaction was, "Why would you want to go there?" One response from someone who'd been there on business was: "Don't bother - it's the New Jersey of Asia." Someone else who'd also been to Taiwan on business inquired whether we'd already purchased our tickets. When I answered in the affirmative, he said: "Well, since you're going anyway, you might as well try to enjoy it." But there was one lone voice, a person we'd met in Hong Kong, who urged us to go to Taiwan and said it was one of her favorite places in the whole world. I must admit I had my doubts, but after spending nearly two weeks in Taiwan, Jeremy and I were wondering what the naysayers were talking about.

Enjoying fresh passion fruit juice at the Shilin Night Market in Taipei

Simply put, Taiwan is a grossly underrated tourist destination, with an amazing diversity of things to see and do. The food is fantastic and the night markets are some of the best in the world. The opportunities for natural recreation and scenic sightseeing are endless: there are over 150 mountain peaks exceeding 3,000 meters in height, many miles of jagged coastline, and plenty of waterfalls, gorges, rivers, lakes, and deep green valleys. There are lively, colorful Chinese temples everywhere, exhibiting a wealth of traditional architecture and a distinctive amalgam of Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian religious traditions. The public transportation system is remarkably efficient, with comfortable and affordable buses and trains to take you pretty much anywhere you would want to go. The friendly populace is yet another highlight, and on more than one occasion people stopped to ask us if we needed directions, help, and even fresh fruit!

Chinese temple at the Shilin Night Market

Our first stop was Taipei, Taiwan's capital and biggest city, which has been called the Ugly Duckling of Asia. Yes, there is plenty of nondescript urban sprawl, and overall the city is not a photogenic one like Hong Kong or Singapore is. On the other hand, the sightseeing is decidedly first class. The National Palace Museum houses a stellar collection of Chinese art and is one of the best museums in all of Asia. We also saw an excellent Chagall exhibit in another museum next door. Not surprisingly, Taipei boasts an impressive collection of Chinese temples - spending an afternoon at the Longshan Temple provided an especially engaging insight into traditional Taiwanese religion, with scores of worshipers chanting, making offerings and burning incense. At one point Jeremy looked at me and said, "Wow, this is pretty interesting, huh?" The charming Dihua Market area provides a glimpse of Taipei's secular past, with many buildings dating from the 1850s to the pre-World War II Japanese colonial period. We also visited the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Park, a spacious public square with some very attractive monumental Chinese architecture. The Shinlin Night Market - Taipei's largest and most famous - offers a dizzying array of tasty treats, from roasted duck sandwiches, to freshly made potato chips, to heaping mounds of fresh fruit, to giant juicy pork buns, to vegetarian snacks with tofu and taro, to every kind of creature of the sea that Jacques Cousteau could dream up. In addition to all the culinary attractions, there are plenty of carnival games, like throwing darts at water balloons and trawling for fuzzy toys with a large mechanical arm. Jeremy also liked the Ximending district, with its neon lights, late-night shopping, cheap restaurants, and a fashionable crowd of twenty-somethings. And it's all readily accessible due to one of the best metro systems I've ever ridden.

Guandu Temple (outside Taipei, accessible by metro)

After sightseeing in Taipei, we spent a whole day exploring the city's outskirts. The highlight was the dramatically situated Guandu Temple, which is built into the side of a hill that commands great views over the Danshui River. It's a spectacular edifice that is bound to impress even the most jaded nine-year-old temple goer - at first Jeremy bitterly complained that he didn't want to go see yet another temple, but once we got there he loved it and didn't want to leave. Nearby, the small town of Danshui attracts visitors (and school groups) with its historic forts and temples, bustling morning market, quaint streets, waterside restaurants, and river views.

When you leave the city, you quickly realize how pretty the natural surroundings are. For example, Wulai is only about an hour outside the city center by public transport, but it feels like an entirely different world, with extensive hiking trails, a series of waterfalls, and hilly rural scenery. We spent an entire day hiking, returning to Taipei in the evening to hit the Shilin Night Market for a second time, for more fishballs, freshly made potato chips, and carnival games.

Taipei was indeed a big surprise, but the best of Taiwan was yet to come.