The Crumbling Charm of Ramla

Ramla is a small city about 30 minutes southeast of Tel Aviv (not to be confused with the city of Ramallah in the West Bank).  It is a decidedly scruffy place and has a reputation as a rough town plagued by drugs and crime.  But it's also filled with history and has a raffish charm that keeps calling us back.  We first went to Ramla mainly as an excuse to take a short train ride (Talia loves trains!), but we liked it so much we've been back several times.

Ramla was founded in the early 8th century CE by the Umayyad Caliph Suleiman ibn Abed al-Malik (I'm pretty sure he was known as Sully the Caliph to his friends and admirers, but I've been unable to confirm this).  Before the Crusaders came, Ramla prospered as the Arab capital of Palestine, its economic and political importance owing to its location at the juncture of two critical roads - one connecting Egypt with Damascus and the other connecting the port of Jaffa with Jerusalem.  The Crusaders and the Muslims battled fiercely for the city and its strategic location, and centuries later Napoleon used the city as his base to attack Jaffa.

Ramla's most compelling historic landmark is the Tower of the Martyrs, built in the early 14th century as an addition to the White Mosque, which was originally built in the 8th century.  The tower is wonderfully preserved and is surrounded by ruins from the mosque dating back to the 12th century.  The square 100-foot high tower apparently fulfilled both a spiritual and a practical function, serving both as a minaret to call the faithful to prayer and as an observation deck overlooking an extensive flat area from the western coast to the eastern hills.  

Another impressive site is the ancient underground reservoir known as the Pool of Arches.  It also goes by the name of the Pool of St. Helena, based on the legend that Helena, mother of the Roman Emperor Constantine, initiated the digging.  It's an archeological site made for family fun, as you can explore the small subterranean reservoir in a row boat.  Jeremy and I did a great job rowing, as we crashed into the pillars only four or five times during our 10 minute journey.  Eden and I affectionately refer to the site as "The Underground Venice of the Greater Tel Aviv Metropolitan Area."

But wait, there's more!  The city boasts several notable historic churches - including a 16th century monastery where Napoleon reportedly stayed in 1799, and a 19th century monastery built on 2nd century foundations.

In addition to these recognized historic monuments, the city is filled with intriguing urban vistas and nameless, crumbling Ottoman curiosities that seem to sprout up on every street corner.  One of the historic buildings has been beautifully restored as a renowned restaurant (Samir's) serving delicious Middle Eastern fare.  Finally, the city has a diverse ethnic mix, with a substantial Arab population and Jews from Russia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Peru.

All in all, Ramla is a very rewarding destination off the beaten tourist path.  

Jeremy, look up from you kindle and eat your vegetables!