More From Jaffa - Ancient History & Modern Style

Jaffa is one of the oldest inhabited places on earth, but a recent spate of renovation and development projects has brought dramatic changes and infused new energy into the city (which is actually part of the same municipality as Tel Aviv).  In prior posts, we described the history and feel of old Jaffa and the joys of the Thursday night market.  As we get to know Tel Aviv better, we are spending more and more time enjoying Jaffa's many charms and its intriguing mix of historic architecture and modern style.

The daily and ever-expanding flea market has a great vibe and is a fascinating mishmash of merchants selling everything from valuable antiques to contemporary junk.  There's a growing number of trendy and eclectic restaurants, including one where you can eat a delicious meal lounging on a comfy retro couch and then buy the vintage artwork off the walls.  There's a new scenic waterfront promenade that seems to go on forever, connecting Jaffa with Bat Yam to the south and Tel Aviv to the north.  There's a giant waterfront park (which the kids have fallen in love with) offering sparkling new playgrounds, large grass lawns, rolling green hills, and awesome views of the Mediterranean and old Jaffa.  And there's one building project after another - mostly historic preservation of old Ottoman structures, but also avant garde projects that add modern architectural elements.

You can certainly debate the value of all this redevelopment.  Supporters claim it is creating construction jobs and breathing new life into neighborhoods in Jaffa and southern Tel Aviv that were previously falling into decay.  Opponents argue it is pushing prices too high and driving out lower-income residents.

These same issues often arise in connection with redevelopment projects in the United States.  But in Jaffa there's an added twist of controversy, as projects aimed at providing exclusive housing for Orthodox Jews in traditionally Arab neighborhoods have been challenged as divisive and discriminatory.  On the other hand, some Jews we spoke with said they decided to live in Jaffa specifically to promote a mixed community of Jews and Arabs.  It seems there may be diverse motives driving Jaffa's redevelopment.

One notable redevelopment project involved the  renovation of the old Jaffa railway station (in what is today southern Tel Aviv), which opened in 1891 as the first train station in the Middle East.  The station was closed in 1948 and then became an empty wasteland for over half a century.  But it has recently been restored as an entertainment and leisure hotspot, with a host of bars, cafes, restaurants, gelato shops, and expensive jewelry and clothing stores.  (A restored train car displays old photographs documenting the station's history.)  

Another redevelopment project is currently slated for the American Colony, a small area in an urban no-man's land just outside of Jaffa.  The area was settled in 1866 by 157 Christians from Maine in an effort to hasten the second coming of Christ.  They actually brought prefabricated wooden houses with them, although the settlement was largely abandoned by the 1880s.  Some of the houses have been beautifully preserved - it's like a little slice of New England in the Holy Land!  (See right and below.) 

The idea of the new project is to provide luxury housing in an architectural style that is compatible with the historical surroundings (though I'm pretty sure that devout 19th century folk from Maine would not have believed that naturally lit indoor swimming pools were compatible with anything good).  Ah, how the times have changed: A four-room house in the original American Colony cost $16 a year in rent, while apartments in the new development reportedly cost well in excess of $1 million.

   
We keep coming back to Jaffa (and the adjacent neighborhoods in southern Tel Aviv) because we enjoy the juxtaposition between the quirky and the stylish; the laid-back but vibrant atmosphere; and the compelling architecture.  Well, maybe for the kids, it's the excellent beaches and waterfront parklands.  But whatever the reason for coming, the area is beginning to stand out as our favorite destination in Tel Aviv.