The Lesser Known Sights of Central Israel

Ottoman fortress at Tel Afek, near Tel Aviv

One of the advantages of spending several months in Israel (and of not having jobs) is that we have the time to explore some of the country's lesser known destinations.  Also, we bought an annual membership for the Israel Nature and Parks Authority, so of course my new obsession is to see how many of Israel's 60 or so national parks we can visit in our time here.  (We've already gotten our money's worth, with 21 parks down and counting!)

Most visitors to Israel see the area between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem only fleetingly from the inside of a car, bus or train.  But there's actually plenty worthwhile to do if you slow down and take the scenic route. The diverse range of destinations includes spectacular caves, historic ruins from a number of different eras, remote hilltop vistas, graceful churches and monasteries, and dozens of wineries.

Roman Odeon at Tel Afek

One of our favorite local destinations is the Yarkon & Tel Afek National Park, just outside Tel Aviv.  Eden and I recently went there for a morning excursion on her birthday while the kids were in school.  (Eden just turned 29, but she doesn't look a day over 28).

According to the spiffy tourist brochure, the earliest remains found on the site are thousands of years old (from the Chalcolithic Period, 4500-3300 BCE), and the site is mentioned in Egyptian texts from the 19th century BCE as a large fortified city.  In the 1st century BCE, Herod expanded the city and named it Antipatras, after his father Antipater.  The city had a large Jewish community, which was decimated in the 1st century CE by the Roman general Vespasian.  Today's visitor can see remains from the Late Roman period, including the city's main street (the Cardo) and a small theater (the Odeon).

Ottoman fortress at Tel Afek

The most impressive ruin on the site is an imposing Ottoman fortress from the 16th century.  More Ottoman ruins nearby include a 19th century flour mill and farming village. And there are buildings from the British Mandate period, when the site was used as part of an elaborate water supply system to serve Jerusalem.  The ruins are situated among preserved and reconstructed wetlands and rain pools, once common but now a rare feature in Israel's coastal plain.

Ottoman fortress at Tel Afek

Pond at Tel Afek

Another historic place in a picturesque natural setting is the En Hemed National Park, about 10 kilometers west of Jerusalem.  The park is located in a pretty valley that contains several natural springs feeding a stream - hence its Latin name Aqua Bella ("beautiful water").  For me, the highlight was a fortified, two-story Crusader farmhouse from the 12th century, although the few visitors that were at the park seemed much more interested in getting their barbecues going than exploring the ruins. 

Crusader farmhouse at En Hemed

Inside the farmhouse at En Hemed

Just outside of Jerusalem on a hill overlooking the highway to Tel Aviv is the Castel National Park.  The Romans took advantage of the site's strategic location, building a fortress known as "Castellum" to ensure their control of the road to Jerusalem.  Centuries later, the Crusaders built a castle on top of the Roman ruins.  After the fall of the Crusaders in the 13th century, the site seems to have disappeared from the historical record.

But the site's importance reemerged during the 1948 Arab-Israeli war.  There were fierce battles for the hill, which changed hands several times, as both sides sought to control the road connecting Jerusalem with the coast.  The Israelis' ultimate victory at HaCastel was a critical turning point in the war.  The National Park contains remnants from the Crusader castle, trenches dug by the Israeli army in 1948, and memorial plaques commemorating Israeli soldiers lost in battle.

Castel National Park

The abandoned village of Sataf also combines ancient and modern history.  Sataf contains some of the oldest traces of agriculture in the region, dating back to 4000 BCE.  It also contains the remnants of a 19th century Arab village that was deserted in the 1948 war.  The site is located in a steep valley, and the windy road to Sataf is half the adventure, offering stunning hilltop views.

Sataf, abandoned in 1948

Sataf from above

On the way to Sataf (view from the top of Mt. Tayasim)

Another scenic spot located in the hilly landscape to the west of Jerusalem is the Soreq Cave National Park, inadvertently discovered in 1968 during blasting operations at a rock quarry.  The cave is believed to be one of the most active in the world in terms of the formation of stalactites and stalagmites.  Our favorite of the many fascinating formations looked like a large, hungry monster mouth. The area around the cave is also beautiful for hiking and for forcing the children to pose for pictures.

"I'm hungry!"

Finally, there are a number of places in between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv for seeing historic churches of all shapes and sizes.  Ein Kerem is actually within the western edge of Jerusalem's city limits, but it feels like a small village far from the urban crush.  This picturesque community of stone houses is home to several important churches related to John the Baptist.  Abu Ghosh, just west of Jerusalem, is known for its food (it's been called "the hummus capital of Israel") and for its two French churches.  One incorporates 12th century Crusader remains built on top of a Roman castle, all in a verdant garden setting.  Latrun, about midway between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, boasts a French Trappist monastery that has been producing wines since 1899.

Church of St. John, Ein Kerem

Church of the Visitation, Ein Kerem

Russian Orthodox Church, Ein Kerem

Stone building in Ein Kerem

Crusader Church and Monastery, Abu Ghosh

At the Crusader Church and Monastery, Abu Ghosh

Notre Dame Arche d'Alliance, Abu Ghosh

French Monastery in Latrun

Vineyards at Latrun

We continue to be amazed at all the sights that Israel has to offer.  And we'll let you know our verdict on the Trappist wine - we plan on drinking some of it tonight to toast the arrival of Eden's father!